The Stelae Field of Axum, located in the ancient city of Axum in northern Ethiopia's Tigray Region, is a remarkable collection of towering granite obelisks carved and erected by the Aksumite civilization, believed to date roughly between the 4th century BCE and 4th century CE. Dozens of these monolithic columns — some still standing, others long toppled — are covered in enigmatic multi-story architectural carvings that appear to mimic the facades of elaborate buildings. According to existing site records, the tallest standing stele is considered among the largest such monoliths in the world, though precise confirmed measurements are not available here. Gates, visibly awestruck on camera, called the field "outrageous" and noted the columns almost look "like science fiction." The site sits at the heart of what was once a powerful ancient trade kingdom, and it plays a central role in Ethiopia's deeply held tradition that the Ark of the Covenant was brought here from Jerusalem — a tradition Gates traveled to investigate in Season 3 of Expedition Unknown.
Aksumite civilization begins erecting granite stelae in Axum, believed to mark royal tombs or ceremonial sites
Aksumite Kingdom reaches peak power as a major trade center; stelae field likely completed during this era
Josh Gates investigates the stelae field with historian Bob Cornuke in Expedition Unknown S03E12, "The Ark of the Covenant"
Historian and Biblical archaeologist Bob Cornuke accompanied Gates at the stelae field and advanced the argument that a carved image on a specific fallen stela constitutes, in his words, 'a 2,000-year-old photograph in stone of the container of the Ark of the Covenant.' Cornuke has written and spoken extensively about the Ethiopia-Ark connection and represents one end of a spectrum of scholarly opinion on the subject — a view the episode presents as intriguing but framed carefully as Cornuke's interpretation, not established fact. Gates himself noted that if Cornuke is correct, the carving 'would be one of the oldest depictions of the Ark and could be proof that it was brought here to Ethiopia.'
Mainstream archaeology regards the stelae field as funerary and ceremonial monuments of the ancient Aksumite Kingdom — one of the great civilizations of the ancient world and a major hub in Red Sea and Indian Ocean trade networks. The multi-story carved facades on the obelisks are generally understood by scholars to represent the architecture of Aksumite elite buildings, not necessarily religious or Ark-related iconography. The kingdom's power and sophistication are well-documented, and the stelae are considered among the finest examples of ancient monumental stone carving in sub-Saharan Africa.
The connection between Axum and the Ark of the Covenant is a question that genuinely occupies scholars of Ethiopian history and religion, even if most mainstream biblical historians remain deeply skeptical. Ethiopia's Orthodox Christian tradition holds firmly that the Ark resides at the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion in Axum — a claim that cannot be independently verified because access to the relic is restricted to a single appointed guardian. The stelae and their iconography exist in a separate archaeological context, and interpreting a carved image as a depiction of the Ark specifically requires a chain of assumptions that most archaeologists would not make without far more corroborating evidence.
What Gates' episode contributed was a vivid, on-the-ground look at a site that is genuinely extraordinary on its own archaeological merits, while giving Cornuke's theory a fair hearing without overstating it. The episode is honest that Gates was turned away from the church where the Ark supposedly rests, leaving the central question unanswered — as Gates put it: 'How can we determine if the legend is true without getting a look inside?' The stelae field segment functions as a compelling piece of circumstantial context rather than confirming evidence.
The stelae were carved from single blocks of granite — an extraordinary feat of ancient engineering given that no wheeled vehicles or draft animals capable of moving such weights are documented in Aksumite records.
According to existing site records, the tallest standing stele in the field is considered among the largest monolithic obelisks in the world.
One of Axum's great obelisks was removed to Rome during the Italian occupation and only returned to Ethiopia in 2005 after decades of diplomatic effort.
Aksumite civilization was one of the earliest in the world to officially adopt Christianity as a state religion, doing so in the 4th century CE — a heritage that underpins the local tradition connecting the site to the Ark of the Covenant.
The Stelae Field of Axum is generally accessible to visitors in the city of Axum (also spelled Aksum), and the obelisks are visible in an open-air setting. Travelers should check current advisories for the Tigray Region of Ethiopia, as security conditions in the area have been subject to change in recent years. Entrance fees and guided tours are typically available through local operators.
Axum (Aksum) is the site city itself; Mekelle, the regional capital of Tigray, is approximately 250 km to the east and serves as a major transport hub.
October through March is generally considered the most comfortable time to visit northern Ethiopia, after the main rainy season and before the intense heat of late spring. Crowds tend to be lighter outside of major Ethiopian Orthodox religious festivals, though those festivals can themselves be a remarkable reason to visit.
Jerusalem
Jerusalem is the city from which Ethiopian tradition holds the Ark of the Covenant was taken, making it the direct origin point in the same S03E12 Ark investigation Gates pursued at Axum.
Kingdom of Kush Pyramid Tombs
The Kingdom of Kush pyramid tombs represent another major ancient African civilization and monumental stone tradition that Gates investigated, offering a comparative archaeological context for Aksumite culture.
Holy Land
The Holy Land sites connect directly to the broader biblical trail Gates followed in searching for the Ark of the Covenant — the same overarching investigation that brought him to the Stelae Field of Axum.